Cronaca di un viaggio
Così dice Eduardo De Filippo della sua città: “Napule è nu paese curioso: è ‘nu teatro antico, sempre apierto. Ce nasce gente ca senza cuncierto scenne p’ ‘e strate e sape recità.”
Visitare Napoli è un qualcosa di unico; è un percorso nella musica del ‘900, nei versi del teatro di Scarpetta ed Eduardo, nelle immagini del cinema del dopoguerra, si può dire un percorso nella memoria. E quindi come non aderire con entusiasmo alla proposta del Presidente di tre giorni a Napoli con serata al San Carlo? E abbiamo aderito in tanti, carichi di aspettative e curiosità che non verranno deluse. Un viaggio in pullman che è volato piacevolmente tra qualche sonnellino, chiacchiere, un assaggio di musica mozartiana propedeutica alla serata, caffè e pasticcini. All’arrivo, dopo una sosta gastronomica con pizza napoletana ‘vera’, abbiamo iniziato la visita del grandioso Museo Archeologico, uno dei più importanti al mondo, dove ci attendeva il Direttore, Dott. Giulierini, a noi già noto quando dirigeva il MAEC di Cortona, che ci ha sapientemente guidati, facendoci cogliere ed apprezzare le opere più significative delle immense collezioni raccolte.
A lui i nostri più sentiti ringraziamenti. Simpatico ricordare lo stupore di alcun custodi: “.ma chi songo chisti che li accompagna ‘u Direttore ?”, oppure l’ apprezzamento per il suo operato o, in un caso, il dispiacere di un custode di dover andare in pensione proprio ora che “un Direttore ha portato la luce”.
Beh, inutile descrivere l’emozione di fronte al ricchissimo e pregevole patrimonio di opere d ‘arte della Collezione Farnese, giunta da Elisabetta Farnese al figlio Carlo III quando, divenuto Re di Napoli, nel 1734 le trasferì da Parma nella città partenopea portando all’attuale splendore il Museo già inaugurato nel 1615. Ammirati di fronte alla colossale statua di Apollo seduto, al gruppo deiTirannicidi, alla statua di Artemide Efesia, al Ganimede con l’aquila, allo splendido Toro Farnese, o all’Ercole Farnese, copie mirabili di originali greci, oppure alla Tazza Farnese del II sec. a C. riccamente decorata con scene allegoriche. E poi ancora di fronte ai mosaici e agli affreschi pompeiani di grande eleganza e finezza: il catalogo dei pesci, le nature morte, il Cave canem, la scena del gatto con quaglia, la caleberrima battaglia di Isso di Alessandro Magno contro Dario o il Memento Mori o la scultura del Fauno danzante, ritrovati in gran parte nella casa del Fauno di Pompei, o affreschi quali il noto ritratto di Saffo o di Paquio Proculo, o la Rissa nell’anfiteatro di Pompei o i Corridori, inquietanti bronzi della villa dei Papiri di Ercolano con i loro penetranti occhi azzurri. Abbiamo concluso la nostra visita con uno sguardo al Gabinetto Segreto con i suoi soggetti erotici e sessuali provenienti sempre da Pompei ed Ercolano, riaperto al pubblico solo dal 2000 e così denominato dai Borbone, al quale “avessero unicamente ingresso le persone di matura età e di conosciuta morale”. Ma le sue vicende non finiscono qui e, molto più tardi, con i moti del ’48, il Gabinetto divenne simbolo delle libertà civili e di espressione, ma poi nuovamente censurato in quanto ‘monumenti infami della gentilesca licenza’ e ‘lascivissimi’ che potevano infangare la reputazione della casa reale e, perciò, definitivamente sigillati e murati affinchè “se ne disperdesse per quanto possibile la funesta memoria”. ‘Liberato’ da Garibaldi, ricadde sotto la censura del Regno d’Italia e ancora sotto il regime fascista che prevedeva per l’accesso il permesso del Ministro dell’Educazione Nazionale a Roma. Così funziona la storia
Tornando alla cronaca della nostra giornata, dopo un ‘recupero di energie’ in albergo ed una veloce cena al Ristorante Rosati, ci addentriamo con non poca emozione,nel più antico teatro d’opera d’ Europa ( inizialmente solo per opera seria, poi anche opera buffa ), voluto sempre da Carlo III, uno dei più capienti teatri all’italiana del nostro paese, dall’acustica perfetta. Fastoso, maestoso, uno scintillio di oro, di rosso, di decorazioni raffinate. “Non c’è nulla in tutta l’Europa ,che non dico si avvicini a questo teatro,ma ne dia la più pallida idea.Gli occhi sono abbagliati,l’anima rapita”scrive Stendhal nel 1817. Una piccola curiosità: ogni palco in una parete laterale ha uno specchio inclinato per riflettere il palco reale, affinchè gli spettatori potessero vedere i reali e non applaudire o chiedere il bis prima che lo facessero il re o la regina.
Solo il loggione ne era sprovvisto, segno della libertà da ogni tipo di condizionamento. E così noi, abbagliati e rapiti, alla maniera di Stendhal, ci immergiamo nella musica de Le nozze di Figaro, composta da Mozart a 29 anni nel 1786, la prima delle tre opere buffe italiane da lui scritta su libretto di Lorenzo Da Ponte, tratta dalla commedia “Le mariage di Figaro” di Beaumarchais”.
Un’opera in quattro atti che si svolge in un fitto e folle intreccio di passioni gelosie, tradimenti, di momenti drammatici e comici, nel corso di una sola giornata,in cui i ‘servi’ si dimostrano più intelligenti e migliori dei loro padroni. Una critica alle classi sociali del tempo o una simpatica metafora delle fasi dell’amore: l’amore acerbo Cherubino e Barberina), l’amore che sboccia (Susanna e Figaro), l’amore logorato (il conte di Almaviva e la contessa), l’amore maturo (Marcellina e don Bartolo).
Al termine della serata, soddisfatti e assonnati, ce ne torniamo in albergo, mentre qualcuno ancora canticchia “Non più andrai, farfallone amoroso, notte e giorno d’intorno girando, delle belle turbando il riposo, Narcisetto Adoncino d’amor”
La mattina del sabato è dedicata alla visita di Ercolano, fondata da Ercole, secondo la leggenda, o, più probabilmente da Osci o, più tardi, da Etruschi, conquistata dai Greci nel V secolo, fino a divenire municipio romano nell’ 89 a. C. A differenza di Pompei, piccolo centro raffinato ed elegante, luogo residenziale dell’aristocrazia romana, nel 79 d. C. fu sepolta totalmente, a seguito dell’eruzione del Vesuvio, da una coltre di fango e materiali piroclastici, dai 10 ai 25 metri, che con il tempo si solidificò formando un piano di roccia che protesse i resti della città, di cui oggi, grazie agli scavi inziati nei primi decenni del ‘700 con il già noto Carlo III e organizzati con cunicoli sotterranei, è stata riportata alla luce una parte, se pur piccola. Sono stati comunque rinvenuti oggetti della vita quotidiana, oltre a tavolette cerate contenenti atti giuridici, in parte ancora leggibili. Gli oltre 300 scheletri ritrovati sull’ antica spiaggia e negli ambientiprospicienti consentono di recuperare interessanti notizie su stili di vita, patologie, regimi alimentari. Eccezionale la conservazione dei 1800 papiri rinvenuti nella villa extraurbana, detta appunto dei Papiri, alcuni dei quali sono stati distrutti nel tentativo di srotolarli, mentre molti conservano preziosi testi in greco e in latino. Passeggiando tra gli scavi, ci siamo immersi nella vita dell’antica città, tra edifici pubblici, religiosi, ludici, come le bellissime terme o la palestra cinta da un portico a colonne e affiancata da una serie di botteghe sovrastate da piccole case che venivano date in affitto. Ben conservata la bottega con su scritto ‘ad cucumas’ che prendeva il nome da 4 brocche disegnate, come insegna, su un pilastro che indicava i tipi di bevande disponibili e i prezzi del vino. Certamente non meno coinvolgente visitare le case private e rimanere ammirati di fronte al grazioso ninfeo rivestito di uno smagliante mosaico rappresentante scene di caccia, maschere teatrali, tralci di vite e il gruppo di Nettuno e Anfitrite della casa omonima o la casa del Rilievo di Telefo o la casa dell Atrio a mosaico, così detta dal bel pavimento musivo a scacchiera che orna l’atrio, o la casa sannitica decorata da fini pitture e altre ancora,una più affascinante dell’altra.
Terminata la visita, si torna a Napoli per un buon pranzo di pesce sul Lungomare proprio di fronte a Castel dell’ Ovo prima dell’ attesa visita della città partenopea che è possibile descrivere solo attraverso le sensazioni che essa suscita.
Lo stupendo lungomare con vista sul golfo vigilato dall’imponente e incombente Vesuvio, dalla Certosa di San Martino al Vomero e alla collina di Posillipo, il Maschio Angioino, il Teatro, Piazza Plebiscito, la Galleria Umberto, il tanto celebrato monastero di Santa Chiara con il suo magico Chiostro trasformato nel ‘700 nel più splendido esempio di giardino rustico con i sedili e gli ottagonali pilastri dei pergolati rivestiti di mattonelle maiolicate rappresentanti a colori vivaci e scintillanti paesaggi e scene di vita napoletane. Una sensazione magica, un’atmosfera da sogno.
E poi ancora la Cappella Sansevero con il Cristo velato ,opera settecentesca di incredibile bellezza e raffinato virtuosismo tecnico; una totale immersione nella Napoli viva e vera di via Toledo e, ancor più, di Spaccanapoli (antico decumano inferiore della città greco-romana, l’antica Neapolis ), pittoresco cuore della città e simbolo del Natale cittadino di antica tradizione, con i suoi colori, suoni, musica ad ogni angolo, profumi e tanta tanta gente loquace e rumorosa; una delle strade più animate e ricca dei monumenti più celebri e amati dai turisti, ma soprattutto dai napoletani, dove arte, tradizione ,storia e cultura si coniugano in un amalgama di sensazioni. E qui ci siamo lasciati travolgere con entusiasmo dai venditori di amuleti, corni e cornetti scaramantici, dalle sfogliatelle lisce o ricce e dai babà di Scaturchio e, come bambini, dall’ infinità di presepi di Via San Gregorio Armeno, tradizionali e non, fantasiosi e irresistibili.
Fin dall’ antichità Napoli era considerata la ‘Culla dei misteri del Mediterraneo’; segreti, storie e leggende, nate dalla loro ironia e dal loro cuore, accompagnano la vita dei Napoletani. Dalle storie di fantasmi, come il famoso ‘Munaciello’ che trae le sue origini nel XV secolo o la bellissima Maria D’Avalos, morta tragicamente per una fugace storia d’amore o la storia di Raimondo di Sangro, meglio conosciuto come il Principe di Sansevero, che, con i suoi procedimenti alchemici, avrebbe ‘marmorizzato’ il velo del Cristo Velato e mille altre leggende a lui legate. Una città dai mille volti, con i suoi enigmi più seducenti, capace di conservare modi di vita, gusti popolari, personaggi storici, e non, nati dalla sua storia, dai tanti popoli e genti diverse, di passaggio, di conquista, di dominio che profondi influssi, ancora vivi, hanno lasciato nel linguaggio, nella vivacità delle espressioni popolari, nei fantasiosi proverbi.
Sazi di forti sensazioni ci ricomponiamo per una cena squisita di fronte al Maschio Angioino, pregustando la nostra terza giornata che ci vedrà impegnati nella visita della Reggia di Caserta.
La domenica Giove Pluvio non è stato dalla nostra parte, ma non ci ha certo impedito di visitare la Reggia, ovvero l’interno se non il parco.
Ma siamo ugualmente rimasti appagati da uno degli edifici più vasti e maestosi d’Italia, fatto edificare nel 1752 da Carlo di Borbone su progetto di Luigi Vanvitelli; una facciata imponente, un interno scenografico, introdotto da un atrio solenne a tre navate che si apre sul maestoso scalone d’onore a due rampe sovrastato da volte ellittiche affrescate. Abbiamo visitato gli appartamenti reali con fastose decorazioni a stucchi, marmi e pitture di gusto neoclassico e arredamento e suppellettili dell’epoca, l’appartamento nuovo con la notevole sala di Marte, la sala di Astrea, la vasta sala del Trono, l’appartamento del Re, con la camera di Francesco II e di Gioacchino Murat, le sale dell’ Appartamento vecchio con le splendide quattro sale delle Stagioni e le stanze di Ferdinando II e della Regina, la Biblioteca e la sala del Presepe con un grandioso presepe settecentesco ricco di oltre 1200 figure (alcune trafugate, altre rinnovate), opera dei più celebri figurinai del ‘700 napoletano. E così, soddisfatti e con gli occhi pieni di bellezze, termina la nostra visita e ci accingiamo al ritorno e, dopo questa cronaca di viaggio, forse un po’ pedissequa, qualche necessaria osservazione su aspetti non meno importanti che hanno caratterizzato questi tre giorni.
Innanzitutto un plauso a Sandra, la nostra accompagnatrice, professionale e gentile e alle tre guide nei singoli luoghi senz’altro competenti e coinvolgenti.
Quarantaquattro persone, di cui alcune del Rotary Arezzo e Valdarno, hanno condiviso queste giornate in un’atmosfera piacevole e serena, in pieno affiatamento, accomunate dal desiderio di conoscere ed assaporare le bellezze di questo itinerario, gustando il piacere di stare insieme; momenti importanti che contribuiscono, oltre a valorizzare l’aspetto culturale, a cementare o, per lo meno, favorire la conoscenza reciproca, l’amicizia e lo star bene insieme, aspetto senz’altro fondamentale della vita di un Club.
E, per concludere con le parole di Eduardo “Se volete fare qualcosa di buono, fuitevenne a Napoli”
Napoli 30 settembre – 2 ottobre 2016
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A primary secret is a special kind of one-of-a-kind secret.
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