Quattro passi per Arezzo

Pier Ludovico Rupi *

Con il presidente, avevamo pensato di titolare questa chiacchierata sulla nostra città. “Dal neogotico al neozotico”, ma poi questa ci è sembrata una titolazione troppo negativa, perché ad Arezzo c’è sicuramente del neozotico, ma la città ha saputo anche darsi sistemi e strutture valide. E allora siamo passati ad un titolo neutrale. “Quattro passi per Arezzo”

Partiamo proprio dalle strutture più valide e muoviamo da lontano, da piazza Guido Monaco con le quattro strade, cioè da quando Arezzo colse l’occasione offerta dal passaggio della strada ferrata per inserire nel vecchio sistema urbano medievale, angusto e rattrappito, una struttura urbanistica ottocentesca, alla francese, che, passando tranquillamente sopra chiese e conventi, aggiunse alla città una nuova vertebra più aperta e moderna.

Lucca, Grosseto, Siena, Prato, quando toccò a loro inventarsi una stazione ferroviaria, non seppero fare altrettanto. La stessa Firenze assegnò alla stazione un rapporto con la città abbastanza casuale, talché ricordo di uno straniero che, uscito dalla stazione di Santa Maria Novella, mi chiese: da che parte si andasse per il centro.

Restando a tempi lontani, tra gli interventi validi c’è sicuramente il campo di aviazione, che forse per il suo peccato di origine (fu la vena futurista del fascismo a riempire l’Italia di campi d’aviazione), è stato considerato dagli aretini poco più di un accessorio per lo svago di pochi avventurosi perditempo E non ha avuto dalla città e dai suoi urbanisti la considerazione e lo sviluppo che meritava.

Siamo ormai a tempi più vicini e forse vi stupirà che io ritenga un intervento importante per la città la punta del Duomo, che il podestà Occhini volle e il rotariano ingegner Cassi progettò, tra l’altro, prima opera ad Arezzo in cemento armato.

Costruita nel 1936, ha dato alla nostra città, una identità, anticipando e riassumendo per chi arriva, da qualsiasi parte provenga, una connotazione medioevale, che, con un insieme sistematico di interventi di vario tipo, (dal rialzamento delle torri, al Saracino), lo stesso Occhini aveva fatto rifiorire.

Pensate che anche Giotto aveva progettato il suo campanile fiorentino con la punta, come quella di Arezzo. Ma poi il Talenti che lo completò, adottò i nuovi canoni rinascimentali, nel frattempo diffusisi, sostituendo la punta con un coronamento. E quando Firenze, nel 1887, completerà la facciata del duomo, salteranno fuori anche proposte e progetti per aggiungere la punta al campanile di Giotto. Ma la leticosità fiorentina bloccherà tutto.

Adesso siamo a tempi vicini, e non possiamo non rilevare che Arezzo si è tempestivamente dotata di un viale semianulare (in urbanistica si chiama strada di “arroccamento”). Questa struttura svincola la strada del Casentino (e attraverso essa, la Libbia), la Setteponti, la Statale per Firenze, il raccordo per l’AutoSole, la via Romana con la Statale per Siena, e la Due Mari verso est e verso ovest: cioè, l’intero sistema viario, mantenendo nello stesso tempo salvaguardato il rapporto della città con le sue colline.

Una struttura simile, ad esempio, Firenze non se l’è saputa dare; e per svincolare il traffico esterno deve ricorrere ai viali ottocenteschi, o all’autostrada del Sole, strutture già intensamente congestionate dal loro specifico traffico

Il parco Giotto è stato un altro grande gesto urbanistico che ha, tra l’altro, conferito qualità al sistema urbano circostante con il quale è ben integrato. Un altro atto urbanistico significativo, seppure di qualità inferiore, è il parco realizzato sull’area Bisaccioni-Martini. Certamente, questi due interventi sono stati resi possibili perché ambedue le aree non erano frazionate, ma appartenevano ciascuna ad una unica proprietà.

Da ultimo, un intervento importante e di alta qualità è stata la scala mobile, che ha restituito accessibilità e valore alla parte di sommità del centro storico. E ha fatto riscoprire agli aretini la preziosità del rapporto della città con le sue colline.

Giriamo adesso sul neozotico, cioè passiamo in rassegna le scelte urbanistiche e gli interventi edilizi più discutibili. E partiamo da quello che mi sembra il più vistoso errore urbanistico che si riscontri nella nostra città.

Un errore di cui pochi si saranno accorti, ma che balzerà evidente quando ve l’avrò rappresentato. Diversamente dal Prato, dal Parco Giotto, dal Parco nell’area Bisaccioni-Martini, ubicati tutti tre al margine periferico della città, c’è una zona verde, il Pionta, di superficie equivalente a quella dei parchi prima nominati, che è immersa all’interno della città. Ma il Pionta è assai più interessante degli altri tre parchi, sia ambientalmente (per la sua morfologia armoniosamente collinare che la fa emergere dal contesto), sia culturalmente (fu centro religioso di Arezzo e sede del Duomo), sia archeologicamente (per le tracce di questa presenza, che gli scavi stanno riportando in vista). Insomma un vero gioiello dentro la città.

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Ma, pur con queste caratteristiche, il Pionta è stato aggredito da ogni parte da interventi edilizi pubblici e privati, e lasciato rinchiudere dietro barriere murate di edifici che lo nascondono e lo sottraggono agli aretini. E di conseguenza, lo rendono anche mal frequentato. Talché, sono certo che molti di voi non vi hanno mai messo piede. E questo è stata una gravissima carenza della nostra città e dei suoi urbanisti.

Nei decenni tra le due guerre, Arezzo atterrò le mura, salvando soltanto la cortina a nord e altri tratti soprattutto verso est e verso ovest. E al posto delle mura abbattute fece realizzare da un famoso paesaggista, il Porcinai, i cosiddetti “giardinetti”. Questa cintura di verde che avvolgeva la parte sud-est della città fu sicuramente una scelta brillante, ispirata al Ring di Vienna. Purtroppo, nell’ultimo dopoguerra fu subito avviata la distruzione di questi giardinetti. Ad ottenere la concessione del terreno nel tratto lungo via Signorelli e a costruirvi sopra, furono, dapprima, due Cooperative (una era la “cooperativa dei magistrati”, l’altra “del Genio Civile”), poi vi costruì la propria sede l’INAM. Successivamente, la parte lungo via Pier della Francesca fu destinata alla sosta degli autobus urbani. Infine una vasta porzione dei “giardinetti”, intorno al bastione dell’Eden fu trasformata in parcheggio pubblico. Di peggio si fece sui bastioni cinquecenteschi, in uno dei quali fu costruita una scuola, in un altro è stato costruito di tutto (cinema, ristorante, bar, piscina ecc.) Poi, forse per confondere le idee, sono stati chiamati “bastioni” le due costruzioni in bozze di pietra in fondo al corso, che non sono assolutamente bastioni: i bastioni erano piazze d’armi sopraelevate, sporgenti rispetto all’allineamento delle mura, dove venivano piazzati i cannoni.

E:\CONFERENZA ROTARY 2017\IMMAGINI\FOTO014.jpg Del resto, perfino nel recente restauro della Fortezza si è visto un bastione ricostruito in lame di acciaio, cosa che chi si è occupato di restauro di varie opere simili, non può assolutamente condividere.

Ma facciamo adesso due passi nel centro della città e prendiamo in considerazione interventi edilizi più specifici

Cominciamo dalla stazione ferroviaria che, tra gli edifici demoliti dai bombardamenti, fu il primo ad essere ricostruito. Era urgente riattivare la ferrovia e nel clima del primissimo dopoguerra, gli toccò una ricostruzione quanto mai dimessa e disadorna. Al posto della volta metallica, furono montate pensiline di recupero e la facciata della stazione fu depauperata di ogni elemento di finitura e di decorazione che l’aveva caratterizzata. E adesso ci ritroviamo una stazione che si presenta con una facciata molto modesta.

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Avviamoci adesso in piazza Guido Monaco dove troviamo i lecci squadrati come se si trattasse di un giardino all’italiana. Ma il giardino all’italiana è tipico del 1700 e la piazza Guido Monaco è squisitamente ottocentesca. E tutte le piazze ottocentesche hanno gli alberi con la chioma tonda. L’anomalia fu rilevata più volte, ma l’osservazione non è stata accolta.

Restando sui rilievi agli interventi errati culturalmente, facciamo un salto a Porta San Lorentino, dove nei primi anni del 1900, per consentire alle automobili l’attraversamento delle mura cinquecentesche, furono aperte due porte con la volta ad arco ribassato. Ma l’arco ribassato, che i fiorentini chiamano “arco scemo”, entra in uso solo nel 1600. Arrivando in città, un occhio attento e con un po’ di cultura si accorge subito dell’anomalia.

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Ritornando nella piazza Guido Monaco, troviamo il “casottino cucù”, che nasconde la macchina che sta arrivando al pedone che si accinge, dalla piazza, ad attraversare la strada. Era ovvio che, provenendo le auto dalla destra del pedone, il casottino sarebbe dovuto essere piazzato alla sinistra del pedone.

Prendiamo adesso la strada verso est, che, prima che il duce la facesse chiamare via Roma, si chiamava anch’essa via Petrarca. Qui troviamo quattro edifici interessanti, tutti realizzati negli anni tra le due guerre: i Portici neoclassici, il villino Liberty accanto all’ingresso dell’anfiteatro, e due ottimi esempi di stile novecento: il palazzo Albanese davanti ai Portici e la grossa casa popolare davanti all’ingresso dell’anfiteatro, che gli aretini battezzarono subito “il casone”. Ma tra questi edifici spicca una costruzione più recente con la stonatura dei pilastri che poggiano alla base della gradinata.

Il concetto di bello non esiste in sé, ma si costruisce attraverso l’inte-riorizzazione di modelli e forme provenienti dalle esperienze personali e dal passato. Nel tempio greco e nelle molteplici derivazioni, le colonne sono sempre in cima alla gradinata.

Muoviamoci adesso dalla piazza Guido Monaco verso ovest. Sopra l’ex fabbrica Bastanzetti compare una struttura metallica importante, della quale non si capisce la funzione. Se si pretende che questa struttura abbia una valenza estetica, si osserva che l’estetica si deve sempre connettere alla funzione.

E:\CONFERENZA ROTARY 2017\IMMAGINI\FOTO025.png Del resto, perplessità desta anche il nome che si è voluto dare all’edificio, “urban center”, quando per tutti gli aretini questo edificio è sempre stato “Il Bastanzetti”,

la prima presenza operaia in Arezzo, una fabbrica storica, la prima nella città, famosa per la fonditura delle campane.

Infine, forse era lo sfondamento delle mura per aprire l’uscita alla via Petrarca, che fu fatto di forza in maniera molto sommaria, che avrebbe richiesto un intervento di rifilatura, questo si di valenza estetica.

Saliamo adesso per via Marconi sul poggio del Sole, nome che oggi sembra dato per ironia. Qui una volta sorgevano solo villini unifamiliari.

Adesso attorno ai due rimasti, troviamo solo casermoni.

Risaliamo via Guido Monaco fino alle Poste. Qui troviamo una cosa curiosa: dopo reiterate demolizioni vandaliche delle due balaustre in pietra ai lati del piazzale antistante le Poste, invece di piazzare un paio di telecamere e incastrare i responsabili, non si è trovato di meglio di ingabbiare le balaustre dentro pesanti doppie strutture di acciaio. Nei miei appunti, questa soluzione l’ho chiamata: “la resa”.

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Risaliamo adesso via Marconi e troviamo in cima alla strada una fontana che non ha mai funzionato. Impariamo dagli arabi, per i quali l’acqua è cosa assai importante, che, in Spagna, hanno insegnato a piazzare le fontane sempre al centro di spazi grandi, nei punti focali delle piazze.

Quindi, se vogliamo proprio piazzare fontane, mettiamone una intorno al monumento di Guido Monaco o, meglio, rimettiamo in funzione, con la corona di zampilli e i pesci rossi, le due chimere di piazza della stazione.

E:\CONFERENZA ROTARY 2017\IMMAGINI\FOTO032.jpg Certo, piazza della stazione è stata trattata assai peggio di piazza Guido Monaco, nascondendo accuratamente e abbandonando al loro destino le fontane delle due chimere e consentendo l’installazione di un gran numero di casotti e casottini, e di ogni altra possibile superfetazione e gabbiotto.

Con interventi, su quel poco di verde di Porcinai rimasto, ancora più caserecci. Anche l’imbocco di via Guido Monaco, che era sottolineato dal palazzo Malentachi, un bell’edificio stile novecento, fu lasciato coprire da un palazzone sorto al posto del villino unifamiliare del senatore de’ Bacci.

E:\CONFERENZA ROTARY 2017\IMMAGINI\FOTO034.jpg Forse anche qui la motivazione va ricercata sul peccato originale della nominazione della piazza che in principio si chiamò “piazzale del duce”.

E:\CONFERENZA ROTARY 2017\IMMAGINI\FOTO033.jpg Adesso andiamo a vedere l’ultimo residuato della guerra. Qui, fino al 1943, c’erano gli edifici del distretto militare, finché furono rasi al suolo dai bombardamenti aerei. Mai più ricostruiti, alla decorazione di quest’a-rea ha provveduto “Icastica”.

Ma francamente non ci sembra che la soluzione sia granché. Forse sarebbe stato meglio integrare quest’area in modo organico nel tessuto urbano, ricostruendo la continuità lungo via Garibaldi, ma dotandola di un portico passante che creasse un rapporto con il grande piazzale interno.

Usciamo adesso in periferia. Qui, per segnalare le brutture, non c’è che l’imbarazzo della scelta. Possiamo assegnare la palma al quartiere di Maccagnolo, praticamente un intero quartiere di casermoni. Ma di casermoni, in periferia, ve ne sono diffusi in varie parti. Raccontiamo la storia di uno di essi. In via Veneto, in angolo con piazza di Saione, c’era la villa dei Del Soldato, con un bel giardino e ai margini, un grande pino secolare che dava il nome al posto. Ad Arezzo si diceva “ci vediamo al Pino” e con questo era chiarissimo dove. Una mattina il pino fu trovato a terra, segato. E l’anno successivo era sorto questo casermone.

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Avvicinandoci alla conclusione di questa passeggiata, andiamo adesso a fare velocemente una visitina ai palazzi pubblici. Il medioevale palazzo Comunale, il palazzo Vescovile rifatto nel settecento, ma con gusto rinascimentale, il settecentesco palazzo

Albergotti dove c’è la Soprintendenza, sono tre edifici di notevole caratura architettonica. Ci sono poi la Provincia la cui facciata verso la piazza è neoclassica e il palazzo delle poste, neogotico. Si tratta di edifici costruiti nel 1900, quindi falsi assoluti. Tuttavia si deve osservare che gli edifici pubblici devono avere una propria caratura retorica, e anche queste due soluzioni architettoniche non si possono non considerare soluzioni intelligenti. Questa retorica trasuda dal bel palazzo del Governo di Michelucci, anche se in perfetto allineamento con i valori del suo tempo: mattoni e travertino, archi e gradonate, statue di uomini nudi e forti, per questo, nelle numerose pubblicazioni delle opere di Michelucci, il palazzo del Governo di Arezzo è accuratamente evitato.

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Infine la vecchia camera di Commercio, nella quale l’ingegnere Brusa Pasquè era brillantemente riuscito a rappresentare l’edificio pubblico in chiave moderna. Mentre la soluzione successiva non ritrova questa capacità.

Chiudiamo questa passeggiata per Arezzo facendo due passi nel centro storico. A proposito, avete notato che in passato non c’erano le terrazze? In via Mazzini, o in via Cavour o in via Garibaldi non ci sono terrazze

E avete visto che quando arriviamo davanti a una chiesa, spesso questa presenta la facciata solcata da una trama orizzontale di pietre grezze sporgenti. E:\CONFERENZA ROTARY 2017\IMMAGINI\FOTO050.png

Esse costituiscono la predisposizione per l’innesto del rivestimento, che la caduta di Arezzo sotto il dominio fiorentino non consentì più di realizzare.

Ma chiudiamo finalmente questa chiacchierata con due edifici del centro storico curiosi.

Il “palazzo bello”, così gli aretini chiamano questo strano palazzo in rigoroso stile veneziano, che si trova nella via di Colcitrone.

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Il “palazzo del povero Tato”, in via Mazzini. Si racconta che il povero Tato aveva programmato di vivere un certo numero di anni e di spendere i soldi di conseguenza. Ma poiché campò di più del previsto, cadde in miseria e si ridusse a chiedere l’elemosina dicendo: “Date un soldino al povero Tato – i soldi son finiti, il tempo gli è avanzato.

Relazione tenuta l’ 8 giugno 2017

* Socio RC Arezzo
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